I'm leaving CA tomorrow. No life changing events. Although surfing was the coolest thing I've ever been really bad at.
When I first went out in the surf all I could think of was how cold it was. But then all of these thoughts started flooding through my mind as fast as the waves breaking in front of me.
It was a struggle for balance, control, focus. All of which seem to elude me normally. Forget about the waves crashing behind and in front of you.
Surfing was the single best metaphor for life I have ever experienced. You can have all of the focus and control in the world and still get crushed. But that one perfect wave...forget that one perfect wave... just being able to get your footing and pop up...makes it all worth it. At least it did for me. For sure, dude...I was stoked.
When I first went out in the surf all I could think of was how cold it was. But then all of these thoughts started flooding through my mind as fast as the waves breaking in front of me.
It was a struggle for balance, control, focus. All of which seem to elude me normally. Forget about the waves crashing behind and in front of you.
Surfing was the single best metaphor for life I have ever experienced. You can have all of the focus and control in the world and still get crushed. But that one perfect wave...forget that one perfect wave... just being able to get your footing and pop up...makes it all worth it. At least it did for me. For sure, dude...I was stoked.
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summer74:
I wish I could put EVERYTHING in perspective like that.
bri_bri:
i'm not a big surfer but after reading this i understand those people that say 'surfing is life'