Good morning class. It seems that your auto shop teacher Mr. Bondolli is off on another bender, so I'll be your substitute again. This time if I catch anyone sneaking off to woodshop to make a hash pipe or a baseball bat with nails sticking out of it or whatever it'll be straight to the principal, got it? Very well. Now then, Mr. Bondolli's notes say that next on the class agenda is to... hmm, where'd it go? let's see, ok here it is. Week seven: "Build A Fucking Motor." Sure is a colorful guy that Bondolli. Ok, then. I guess we'll all just be learning along with each other.
First, a word about safety. Look over there at that rug, what does it say?
That's right, the rug says "it's always time for safety." Now Jimmy, look at the clock on the wall and tell me what time it is. Excellent Jimmy! That's correct, it's time for safety. Also, you'll notice that I've placed a reminder on the media blasting cabinet that you are not to place any small children inside.
And no spraying each other's eyes with brake cleaner, either. Very good then, I think we're all set.
Step one: Take Shit Apart. Oh, you guys did that all ready? Ok, I see where we are now. Says here that the machinist has bored the block .030" oversize and decked the block .023 on one side, .021 on the other to obtain a .009" piston to deck clearance.
Boring refers to making the diameter of the cylinders larger. A ford 302 like this has a cylinder bore of exactly 4 inches, that's the size from the factory. The original size from the factory is refered to as standard bore. Ok, who said that? Who called me a standard bore??!! Maybe you shouldn't have signed up for auto shop, you little shit. Keep pushing me if you want some excitement. No wonder Bondolli drinks so much.
Ok, you may see the abbreviation "std." stamped or written on standard size pistons, standard size bearings and bearing bores, any item or critical dimension that remains the same as it was from the factory (not accounting for wear on used pieces, of course). Now that it's bored .030 over the diameter of the cylinder is exactly 4.030" We'll have to use oversize pistons made for a .030 over bore.
Deck clearance is the amount that the top of the piston (at it's highest point) will be below the surface of the block. In some cases you can even have the pistons protrude above the deck, so long as your head gasket is thick enough to keep the piston from touching the head. But generally it'll be below deck, or even with the deck. Even with the deck is refered to as "zero deck". I originally wanted it zero decked, but the machinist advised me to leave a little clearance and instead source some thin head gaskets. That way if it needs to be decked in the future (maybe from a blown head gasket or warpage from overheating, I dunno?) it can be without pulling the pistons.
The deck was already "hot tanked" which chemically removes all the greasy crud and rust, but then the machining (that's the decking and boring) leaves a lot of grit behind which has to be removed before we can assemble things. We'll use some laundry detergent (it's got tri-sodium phosphate, yum) some different brushes with plastic bristles and a hose hooked up to the hot water heater. The important thing to keep in mind is that the freshly machined surfaces will rust immediately when they begin drying. What we need to do is give those surfaces a coating of WD40 while they are still wet, and no lollygagging about it. Anyone know what WD40 stands for? Anyone? Very good Sally, you're exactly right! Water Displacement 40. Ok, let's go to it!
Once we've got the block good & clean and those machined surfaces are protected we can use compressed air and maybe even a heat gun to dry it. You can substitute your Mom's hairdryer for the heat gun if she's not around. Whatever you do, do NOT seal the block up in a plastic bag to keep it clean in your dirty goddamn shop, no matter how dry you think it is, there's still moisture hiding in it, sealing it up will cause rust, trust me. It's better to have a clean shop, you can throw a garbage bag over the block after a day or so, once you're sure it's totally dry, but still leave it open to breathe.
Ok, it says here that the all the bolts from dissassembly should have be neatly organized, and cleaned in an environmentally responsible way? No? Well did you at least keep the damned dishes separate? More or less?
First, a word about safety. Look over there at that rug, what does it say?
That's right, the rug says "it's always time for safety." Now Jimmy, look at the clock on the wall and tell me what time it is. Excellent Jimmy! That's correct, it's time for safety. Also, you'll notice that I've placed a reminder on the media blasting cabinet that you are not to place any small children inside.
And no spraying each other's eyes with brake cleaner, either. Very good then, I think we're all set.
Step one: Take Shit Apart. Oh, you guys did that all ready? Ok, I see where we are now. Says here that the machinist has bored the block .030" oversize and decked the block .023 on one side, .021 on the other to obtain a .009" piston to deck clearance.
Boring refers to making the diameter of the cylinders larger. A ford 302 like this has a cylinder bore of exactly 4 inches, that's the size from the factory. The original size from the factory is refered to as standard bore. Ok, who said that? Who called me a standard bore??!! Maybe you shouldn't have signed up for auto shop, you little shit. Keep pushing me if you want some excitement. No wonder Bondolli drinks so much.
Ok, you may see the abbreviation "std." stamped or written on standard size pistons, standard size bearings and bearing bores, any item or critical dimension that remains the same as it was from the factory (not accounting for wear on used pieces, of course). Now that it's bored .030 over the diameter of the cylinder is exactly 4.030" We'll have to use oversize pistons made for a .030 over bore.
Deck clearance is the amount that the top of the piston (at it's highest point) will be below the surface of the block. In some cases you can even have the pistons protrude above the deck, so long as your head gasket is thick enough to keep the piston from touching the head. But generally it'll be below deck, or even with the deck. Even with the deck is refered to as "zero deck". I originally wanted it zero decked, but the machinist advised me to leave a little clearance and instead source some thin head gaskets. That way if it needs to be decked in the future (maybe from a blown head gasket or warpage from overheating, I dunno?) it can be without pulling the pistons.
The deck was already "hot tanked" which chemically removes all the greasy crud and rust, but then the machining (that's the decking and boring) leaves a lot of grit behind which has to be removed before we can assemble things. We'll use some laundry detergent (it's got tri-sodium phosphate, yum) some different brushes with plastic bristles and a hose hooked up to the hot water heater. The important thing to keep in mind is that the freshly machined surfaces will rust immediately when they begin drying. What we need to do is give those surfaces a coating of WD40 while they are still wet, and no lollygagging about it. Anyone know what WD40 stands for? Anyone? Very good Sally, you're exactly right! Water Displacement 40. Ok, let's go to it!
Once we've got the block good & clean and those machined surfaces are protected we can use compressed air and maybe even a heat gun to dry it. You can substitute your Mom's hairdryer for the heat gun if she's not around. Whatever you do, do NOT seal the block up in a plastic bag to keep it clean in your dirty goddamn shop, no matter how dry you think it is, there's still moisture hiding in it, sealing it up will cause rust, trust me. It's better to have a clean shop, you can throw a garbage bag over the block after a day or so, once you're sure it's totally dry, but still leave it open to breathe.
Ok, it says here that the all the bolts from dissassembly should have be neatly organized, and cleaned in an environmentally responsible way? No? Well did you at least keep the damned dishes separate? More or less?
Ok class, that's it for today. wash your hands on the way out.
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It's too cold outside to do anything with the fiberglass, but I might as well get the chain lube, brake dust, and road grunge off so the resin will stick...