thecowboy

.perfect waves..just me. and two other friends..a slight offshore breeze..sun warm..water cool..look at the colors in the reef go by..listen to that strange noise as the ocean barrels around you..even falling feels so good..my board brite white and glowing over deep blue..hear us yelling as we pull in..and pop out..hard turns..grabbing rails..you go right, ill go left..all the way to the sun set..laughing..warm soft of sand and beach slow walk home..oh, hawaii.