Surf is so fucking good right now!! There's almost nothing better when it's all working, and it's rarely that good out front. I usually have to drive somewhere to get it good, but tonight was soooooo fucking good right out front, and it wasn't even crowded. That makes it like 10x better. People get pretty ugly in the water when it's too crowded, which is like 95% of the time. Thank all the big corporate surf asses for that one. They killed the sport. It's a fucking mess I tells ya. NO WORK TOMORROW!!
Have a great Friday!
PS: I got my sand. It was all between my toes, in my hair, down my neck, and stuck in my ears.
Have a great Friday!
PS: I got my sand. It was all between my toes, in my hair, down my neck, and stuck in my ears.
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I miss the real beaches. I am dreaming of Hawaii and Costa Rica. Coconut milk and cevice and letting the boobies out. Sand in my belly button and hair in saltwater dreads. necklaces made of leather and shells, the sound of the night surf and bright silky sunsets.
I could've learned to surf when I was in Costa Rica, but I was too lazy from the sun and the beer.