a long weekend of food and drink and altered conciousness and it takes its toll as i paddle out for some morning surf i gassed out and layed on the board outside the set and then just paddled back in without even standing up once....it always feels strange to say good-bye to someone close to you as they go to serve their time...you always want to ask them to just go to mexico at the last minute....if i pull through this next couple of weeks then i deserve a lil' r&r somewhere....i actually feel like i need a major city's atmosphere after my stint in the wilderness, just to get in touch with my metropolitan side again...
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I wonder what the world would look like if you were looking inland and watched the ground jiggle...