Thank God. I just looked at the surf forecast, and there's not going to be waves for at least 4-5 days. I think the last week has been the least productive week of my life, however, it has also been perhaps the best surf in my life, in this country. The waves have been incredible, as back to back weather systems pushed toward our coast and sent waves to all sorts of places that don't often have waves. It culminated in yesterday's session out on the coast, surfing a lonely beach break with just 3 of my friends and bigger than ceiling high waves peeling all the way to the beach, about 200 meters. The only catch was that every 20 minutes a four wave set would come in that was almost twice as big as the waves we were riding and close out the whole "bay", which in turn meant that we would have to try and negotiate our way under massive walls of whitewater 4 times, every 20 minutes. There was no way to get out far enough. Luckily the set waves were breaking in deep enough water that they weren't as powerful as they could have been, so it was totally manageable.
It's been over two weeks since I've written, and in no way will this blog attempt to summarize that time, but here are some headlines: Man drives over 2,000 miles in 14 days in the name of recreation and does not buy carbon credits to offset his trip; Man suffers from Bronchitis for 17 days, yet continues to play in 3 soccer games, surf in 40 degree water, and party until the wee hours; Man kicks illness without the use of antibiotics and hails the merits of Acai and emergen-C; Man sleeps in same bed as a beautiful woman 4 nights, and does not jeopardize friendship by getting fresh, will kick himself in several years; Man blows off all responsibility to surf for a week; Man trades mushrooms for hundreds of dollars worth of goods.
So now I have to put my nose to the grindstone and get back into the swing of things, and I have no idea where to start. I had a dream about hedgehog mushrooms last night, so I think I'll go mushroom picking. Now that's productive!
It's been over two weeks since I've written, and in no way will this blog attempt to summarize that time, but here are some headlines: Man drives over 2,000 miles in 14 days in the name of recreation and does not buy carbon credits to offset his trip; Man suffers from Bronchitis for 17 days, yet continues to play in 3 soccer games, surf in 40 degree water, and party until the wee hours; Man kicks illness without the use of antibiotics and hails the merits of Acai and emergen-C; Man sleeps in same bed as a beautiful woman 4 nights, and does not jeopardize friendship by getting fresh, will kick himself in several years; Man blows off all responsibility to surf for a week; Man trades mushrooms for hundreds of dollars worth of goods.
So now I have to put my nose to the grindstone and get back into the swing of things, and I have no idea where to start. I had a dream about hedgehog mushrooms last night, so I think I'll go mushroom picking. Now that's productive!
Muchos besos querido por tu humor,