Day one in sunny Dana Point, CA. Got up at 5:30 for dawn patrol to surf this morning thinking it would be small. Surpirse! It was 5-6 feet at times, very fast and extremely hollow.
The water was so cold that by the time I got out of the water I could no longer feel my fingers. I had to push the remote to the car with my nose because my fingers didn't work.
I knew it would be a good day when I was sitting out in the water with only 2 other people at that time and a pod of dolphin popped up no more than 5 feet from me. I felt like it could have touched one of them. What an aweseome feeling to be sharing the surf with some of nature's greatest creatures.
The water was so cold that by the time I got out of the water I could no longer feel my fingers. I had to push the remote to the car with my nose because my fingers didn't work.
I knew it would be a good day when I was sitting out in the water with only 2 other people at that time and a pod of dolphin popped up no more than 5 feet from me. I felt like it could have touched one of them. What an aweseome feeling to be sharing the surf with some of nature's greatest creatures.
i envy you- i'm in cold and crappy nyc with the flu!
I wish I were there............ so nice