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cheapbastard

Dull-ass, TX

Member Since 2005

Followers 33 Following 24

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Monday Jan 17, 2005

Jan 17, 2005
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So sore.
But it's a good kind of sore.

Derby practice just keeps getting more and more fun each time I go.

This week we did a lot of speed drills, and my new wheels made all the difference in the world. The soreness comes from my practicing wiping out and learning how to get up properly, i.e., no splayed hands or legs, rolling up off of elbows and knees.

It's difficult to do when gravity's working against you. Looks like it's time to hit the gym for some strength training.

The best part was dividing up into groups of 5 to skate in derby formation. Of course, the fastest skaters all teamed up (which included Birdy and myself) and we spent that whole time lapping the slow skaters, trying to bust through their clusters, whipping each other around corners derby style, and smack talking.

This is my kind of sport.
I'm in love.
VIEW 5 of 5 COMMENTS
kungfuvoodoo:
Film help possibility...

... or maybe...

Lastly some links.

(Plagiarized cut and paste)
As with any movie projector, make sure there's a small loop of free film above and below the gate - there'll be guide marks for this. Also, at the point the film enters the projector and at the point it leaves it there will be a toothed roller which matches up against the film's sprocket holes. Whenever you thread the film manually you'll have to clip open a little lever at either roller to fit the film around this.
MAKE SURE YOU CLIP THESE BACK AFTERWARDS.
Thankfully you can test that everything is threaded okay before you turn on the projector. At the front by the lens is a milled knob - this is the inching knob with which you can move the projector mechanism - by hand - a frame at a time (understandably when you turn the projector on this will whizz round very fast). If it seems to go round fine then all is well. BUT if when you turn the projector on the film makes a rattling/buzzing noise then it's probably because one of the loops is too large. If the loop's too tight then an automatic loop former comes to the rescue. Unlike with Super 8, 16 mm projectors don't have switches for you to press if the loop goes - it should do it all by itself. If it doesn't - and you're mid way through a film - S T O P. Once the loop has seriously gone the film will certainly scratch, probably snap, and/or tear.
Again: Do you have a replacement lamp? Any spare leader? A splicer? An extra take-up spool?
One (often overlooked) thing to work out before you're projecting is where exactly the framing knob, or lever, is on your particular model. On ELF projectors this isn't marked making it nigh on impossible to locate in a panicky moment when the picture has slipped out of rack.
End of plagiarized content

What I do first is just fuck with everything. They tried to desighn everything intuitive and ergonomic, of course if your not an engineer it may not seem that way. Without being there, my advice is a little disconnected, but if you take your indext finger and curl it in that is about how big the film loop needs to be on the top and bottom of the film gate. This loop is the most important thing to get the hang of. Stay in touch and keep me informed as things progress. Cheers

Camper Van Beethoven Rules! If they were in K-ville we would totally hook them up.
I started out this art thing in an alt-rock band in the early 90s gosh it is strange to say early 90s. Anywho soundtracks are what got me into film and most of my friends outside of work are musicians.

Derby? This is a must see activity! I await with baited breath
Cheers and take care.
Jan 18, 2005
kungfuvoodoo:
yes...yes, you're not your. That will teach me to proof read. wink
Jan 18, 2005

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