about two weeks ago a storm system was born off the antarctic ice cap. although the southern jet threatened to derail the system from its destiny in the land of the bronzed, buffed, and bitchin, the little storm that could (in reality its quite big) kept chuggin along, picking up strength over some 4900 miles of uninterrupted NE winds. before reaching its destination, the system peaked at about 40 feet. as a point of reference, that's about big enough to swallow a fully-grown tyrannosarus rex. try painting that on the wall of your cave.
all of this southern hemispherical foreplay would be for nothing if not for a little off shore wind, courtesy of the annual santa ana winds that blow at the close of the summer in southern california. these are the same winds that have the potential start fires that terrorize the southland each year. then again, so cal is so arrid that the desert brush would probably ignite with as little as a spark and a hot, dry fart. without some off shore winds, all that would be left of the storm system would be some big but really sloppy waves that probably wouldn't form or would be really difficult to ride. call it a case of the hang 10 blue balls, if you will. but with a little help from the santa anas, and buddha blesses us with barrels.
the system hit land today and from what i can discern from grainy beach cams and the regular updated swell heights, its on like donkey kong. county line, surfrider, newport, and huntington have checked in with waves in the 5-7 ft. range while leo carillo, topanga, and seal beach aren't far behind at about 4-6 ft. all of that pretty much spells doom on you for the ass of yours truly if i were to attempt to ride any of those monsters. the swell is supposed to peak today, which means things should be a little less dangerous when i'll attempt to paddle out in the afternoons tomorrow and thursday.
in the meantime.. sit tight, hold the fort, and keep the home fires burning. and if i'm not back by friday.. call the president.
all of this southern hemispherical foreplay would be for nothing if not for a little off shore wind, courtesy of the annual santa ana winds that blow at the close of the summer in southern california. these are the same winds that have the potential start fires that terrorize the southland each year. then again, so cal is so arrid that the desert brush would probably ignite with as little as a spark and a hot, dry fart. without some off shore winds, all that would be left of the storm system would be some big but really sloppy waves that probably wouldn't form or would be really difficult to ride. call it a case of the hang 10 blue balls, if you will. but with a little help from the santa anas, and buddha blesses us with barrels.
the system hit land today and from what i can discern from grainy beach cams and the regular updated swell heights, its on like donkey kong. county line, surfrider, newport, and huntington have checked in with waves in the 5-7 ft. range while leo carillo, topanga, and seal beach aren't far behind at about 4-6 ft. all of that pretty much spells doom on you for the ass of yours truly if i were to attempt to ride any of those monsters. the swell is supposed to peak today, which means things should be a little less dangerous when i'll attempt to paddle out in the afternoons tomorrow and thursday.
in the meantime.. sit tight, hold the fort, and keep the home fires burning. and if i'm not back by friday.. call the president.
VIEW 6 of 6 COMMENTS
elfin:
dude, thanks for the link!
pharaoh:
supposedly 10-ish, but i don't believe them. there's like 8 bands or something crazy like that, and it starts at 7. i'll try to get better details.