a random hookup came through on sunday morning and i found myself on a private beach with my favorite shortboard under my arm looking out at a beautiful, uncrowded (which in so cal means less than 10 people in the lineup) right hand point break. the swell was dying down but sets would still come through about head high so i was super stoked to be there, even though i had to suffer being around a lot of super rich donkey fucks that treat access to their beach like a priviledge rather than a right.
sitting in the lineup it was plain to me why people like johnny carson choose to construct their mega-palaces in the malibu bluffs that overlook the pacific. seven time world champion kelly slater made the spot his home-away-from-home break while dating pam. and while i was there i saw big wave superman laird hamilton tahitian paddle boarding between lineups.
water temperatures have been rising and so has activity from wildlife. a pod of about 10 or 12 dolphins circled the break, two of which swam directly under my surfboard close enough that i could touch my toes to their dorsal fins if i extended my leg. for about 2 hours a few dolphins would leap into the air when a big set wave would approach from the horizon, announcing the arrival to the surfers with the full intention of joining the fun.
a day later and i'm back at the office hating the phone calls, emails, and pedantic talking heads that pop into my office. in retrospect its easy to wonder why all days aren't like the day i spent surfing point dume because when you're in the moment smiling is effortless and the bonds of work, school, responsilibity, and the rest are behind me on the shore.
sitting in the lineup it was plain to me why people like johnny carson choose to construct their mega-palaces in the malibu bluffs that overlook the pacific. seven time world champion kelly slater made the spot his home-away-from-home break while dating pam. and while i was there i saw big wave superman laird hamilton tahitian paddle boarding between lineups.
water temperatures have been rising and so has activity from wildlife. a pod of about 10 or 12 dolphins circled the break, two of which swam directly under my surfboard close enough that i could touch my toes to their dorsal fins if i extended my leg. for about 2 hours a few dolphins would leap into the air when a big set wave would approach from the horizon, announcing the arrival to the surfers with the full intention of joining the fun.
a day later and i'm back at the office hating the phone calls, emails, and pedantic talking heads that pop into my office. in retrospect its easy to wonder why all days aren't like the day i spent surfing point dume because when you're in the moment smiling is effortless and the bonds of work, school, responsilibity, and the rest are behind me on the shore.