I'm hurt. The waves got big and killer again and then wham! My surfboard cut my foot real bad. I need the help of the ER, but fuck it, some badages, some tape, and some whiskey will be my treatment. I had to drive home with one foot wrapped in my beach towel elevated out my window. Kind of a funny site.
Ok, well it looks like I am going to miss the next swell. Fuck I love all the energy and danger of the waves out here. The North Shore kicks ass! I'll be back in the water in two snaps of the Chronic.
Ok, well it looks like I am going to miss the next swell. Fuck I love all the energy and danger of the waves out here. The North Shore kicks ass! I'll be back in the water in two snaps of the Chronic.
![smile](https://dz3ixmv6nok8z.cloudfront.net/static/img/emoticons/smile.0d0a8d99a741.gif)
eyesofatragedy:
im on my way right now.. how long do you think it takes to swim across part of the pacific???