Good point on the question of what are thigh-highs.
I'm nowhere near done Middlesex! I read really really slow. But I'm truly loving it. It really has nothing to do with gender at all so far (despite some shorter hints on what is expected of a husband and of a wife in traditional Greek culture), which has surprised me. So far it's all about the immigrant experience and tabboo sexuality.
you do need to read it for real. each time I read it, it gets better. especially when I was scouring it for tattoo-able quotes, then chasing them down in Hugo's original French in my french copy. I re-read it at least once a year.